Flavors in Love » great fish recipes

Lunch With Food Guru Gael Greene

admin — Tue, 26 May 2009 02:54:43 +0000

I met Gael Greene, restaurant critic extraordinaire, about 15 years ago when my partner and I were invited to a small pot luck dinner that she gave in the Hamptons. I made a dish for the potlock, I think it was a filet of beef…but either way I was extremely nervous to cook for her back then. Luckily she loved my dish, and we quickly became good friends.

I loved the idea of a pot luck dinner with fellow food lovers alike; so the following year, my boyfriend and I invited many of my favorite foodie friends…. Alfred Portale,( Gotham Bar and Grill) , Michael Romano, ( Union Square Café), Tom Colicchio ( Top Chef) , Karine Bakhoum( KB Network News) and or course, Gael and her road warrior, Steven Richter. Everyone brought a dish and it was truly one of the best dinner parties/food fests I have ever been to (if I do say so myself!

The idea of a pot luck dinner ended up getting bigger every year. It seemed like everybody who I knew in the food business wanted to come and eat each others food, dance, drink and generally have a great time with one another. We started calling it the “Chef and Foodies Pot Luck Dinner” and we held it annually for years until it just became too big for me to handle. The last year we did it.. there were 150 people!!!

Gael and I have remained friends since then and I so enjoy her intelligence, wit and company…especially when we go out to new restaurants. I admire how she spearheaded City Meals on Wheels and I have been a contributor for many years. It is a charity dear to my heart.

Gael and her partner Steven stayed with me this weekend in the Hamptons. Though we both had busy schedules, she a glamorous wedding and me, other events, we had a chance to cook some lunch together on Saturday.

A quick bit about Gael:

“In her role as restaurant critic of New York Magazine (1968 to
January 2002) Detroit-born Gael Greene helped change the way New
Yorkers (and many Americans) think about food. A scholarly
anthropologist could trace the evolution of New York restaurants on a
timeline that would reflect her passions and taste over 30 years from
Le Pavillon to nouvelle cuisine to couturier pizzas, pastas and hot
fudge sundaes, to more healthful eating.

As co-founder with James Beard and a continuing force behind
Citymeals-on-Wheels as board chair, Ms. Greene has made a significant
impact on the city of New York. Rallying food world peers to make a
commitment to help feed the city’s homebound elderly, she has devoted
as many hours to fund-raising in recent years as she does to writing.
Citymeals, the largest public/private partnership in the country, has
raised $150 million in its twenty-four-year history to help feed the
city’s frail elderly shut-ins.. For her work with Citymeals, Greene
has received numerous awards and was honored as the Humanitarian of
the Year (l992) by the James Beard Foundation..”

SO….

Was I intimidated to cook for such a food celebrity? Considering the fact that she is a good friend of mine and I have cooked with her a number of times, I, unlike most chefs in the business, was not nervous
to make a casual lunch with Gael. (If she was reviewing the opening of a new restaurant and I was the chef…that might be another story!)

Though I love shopping at the local markets in the Hamptons, I am very pleased with the new Citarella that just opened right in Bridgehampton as the fish department is nothing less than inspiring. Though we had many choices of fish, we ended up deciding on a beautiful wild caught sea bass for our main course.

As I mentioned in my last post, one of my favorite summer time appetizers is my fava bean spread, and even though I make it a LOT over the summer I made it again for Gael. I served it first as an appetizer and then grilled the SeaBass with fresh cumin. The distinct flavor of cumin is so delicious when combined with the sauce that has the Middle Eastern Flavors of cardamom and cinammon.

In my cookbook, Pamela Morgan’s Flavors, I make this seabass with preserved lemons. Since I didn’t have any, I grilled the lemons instead and I loved the way they looked and tasted combined with the fish and sauce.

The herbs in our garden were looking very fresh as well and so I decided to make Garden Herb Potato Salad with parsley, tarragon, dill and chives. This particular potato salad tastes so much better when it is served warm.

Although I was satisfied cooking the whole meal myself , Gael wanted to keep busy so we talked about her new favorite restaurants and her upcoming trip to Brazil as she helped me chop celery, set the table and brush olive oil on the sourdough bread used for the fava bean
spread.

The lunch, to both our satisfaction turned out not only delicious, but also full of wonderful and enlightening conversation with this renowned food critic. It’s a pleasure for a foodie/chef like me to spend time with somebody who knows such a great deal about the art of cooking. See http://www.insatiable-critic.com/

Here is the menu:

Fava Bean Spread ( see blog post “Who Doesn’t Love The Start of Spring)

Cumin-Grilled Sea Bass with Grilled Lemons

Garden Herb Potato Salad

Cucumber and Tomatoes with Feta and Mint

We were too full for dessert!!

So we ate healthy chocolate instead ( www.flavorsinlove-chocolate.com)

Here are the recipes!

Cumin-Grilled Sea Bass with Grilled Lemons

Serves 8

5 lemons cut in half

3 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons agave nectar or honey

4 tablespoons olive oil

3 shallots, peeled and finely chopped

4 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped

¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon

¼ ground cardamom

¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper

4 cups chopped fresh plum tomatoes

Salt

1/3 cup halved pitted black Greek olives(Kalamatas)

About 4 pounds sea bass, filleted into 8 pieces

4 teaspoons ground cumin, preferably from toasted seeds

Preheat the grill. Brush the halved lemons with olive oil and agave nectar.

When the fire is hot, lay the lemons on the grill. Grill on both sides until

caramelized about 15 minutes. Remove from the grill but keep the grill lit.

In a medium nonreactive saucepan over low heat, warm 2 tablespoons of the oil.

Add the shallots, garlic, cinnamon, cardamom and crushed red pepper. Cover and cook, stirring once or twice, for 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes and ¾ teaspoon of the salt and bring to a simmer. Cook uncovered, stirring occasionally, until slightly reduced and no longer watery… about 15 minutes. Cut up one of the lemons into small strips and add it and its juice to the sauce.

Reserve the rest of the lemons.

Rub the flesh side of the bass fillets with the remaining 2 tablespoons oil. Season lightly with salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle the flesh side with the cumin, using it all and patting it to encourage it to adhere.

Lay the fillets on the rack. Cover and cook, carefully, turning once until the flesh is just cooked through but still moist and barely flaking, 12-15 minutes.

Transfer to a dish. Garnish with the grilled lemons. Spoon the sauce around the fish and serve immediately.

Adapted from Pamela Morgan’s Flavors

Cucumber and Tomato Salad with Olives, Feta and Mint

1 hothouse cucumber, about 1 pound, trimmed

¾ pound (3 medium) plum tomatoes

1 medium-sized red onions, peeled, halved and sliced

½ cup pitted black Greek olives ( Kalamatas)

3 tablespoons cold-pressed extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons seasoned rice wine vinegar

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

5 ounces drained feta cheese, preferably Greek, crumbled
Halve the cucumber lengthwise. Angle-cut each half cross-wise into ½ inch pieces.

Core the tomatoes and halve them vertically. Scoop out the ribs and seeds. Cu each resulting tomato shell length-wise into 5 or 6 ½ -inch wide strips.

In a large bowl, combine the cucumber pieces, tomato stips, onion slices, olives, mint,

oil and vinegar. Toss well. Season lightly with salt ( the feta will be salty) and generously with pepper and toss again.

Transfer the salad to a shallow serving bowl or deep platter if desired. Scatter the feta

Over the salad and serve immediately.

Adapted from Pamela Morgan’s Flavors

Garden Herb New Potato Salad

Serves 6-8

3 pounds small red-skinned new potatoes, well scrubbed and trimmed

¼ cup apple cider vinegar

¼ cup cold-pressed extra-virgin olive oil

1 ½ teaspoons salt

Fresh ground black pepper

1 cup finely chopped celery

1 cup thinly sliced green onion, tender green tops included

¼ cup chopped drained cornichons ( French gherkins)

¼ cup finely chopped fresh dill

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh tarragon

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh chives

2 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley

Set a steamer basket in a pot and add about 1 inch water. Set the pot over medium heat

and bring to a simmer. Halve the smaller potatoes; quarter the large ones. Add the potatoes to the steamer basket. Cover the pot and cook just until tender, about 15 minutes.

Transfer the potatoes to a large bowl. While they are still hot, drizzle them with the

vinegar and then the oil. Add the salt and a generous grinding of pepper. Toss gently.

Add the celery, green onion, cornichons, dill, tarragon, chives and parsley and toss again. The salad is best when served still slightly warm, but it can be cooled and refrigerated over night if necessary. Return it to room temperature before serving.

Adpated from Pamela Morgan’s Flavors

Impromptu Feast In South Beach

admin — Wed, 08 Apr 2009 17:20:43 +0000

Though I am a New York City girl (crazy since I grew up in the Boonies of Nowhere Texas) everybody needs a break from the hustle and bustle once in a while. In my case, I am grateful because my older brother has a house in South Beach Miami, and whenever I need a dose of ocean air, or some “trendy” nightlife…or anything in between, I allow myself the luxury of hopping on the three hour flight and staying with my bro. New York was freezing as usual this past winter so getting off the plane in South Beach was definitely a nice treat.

And…speaking of TREATS, Scott Conant has a new restaurant, “Scarpetta” in the newly renovated Fontainbleu building in Miami. I had been anxious to eat here since it opened and took this trip to FL as an opportunity to satiate my love of his elegant approach to very simple Italian cuisine. We ate there on a Friday night and I was pleased to see how busy it was. It’s nice to know that the current state of our economy hasn’t impacted all the food lovers in the world…

My meal consisted of an organic beet, endive and raddichio salad, and for an entree, my friends and I ordered Scott’s spaghetti with tomatoes and basil. As somebody who has spent their life eating, learning, exploring and tasting different kinds of foods…especially these days when chef’s sometimes try to over compensate by making their dishes overly-complex… a lot of time (not all the time) it’s really the the most simple dishes with the finest and freshest ingredients…cooked to perfection that truly satisfy my palate.. This dish is as simple as it gets….. spaghetti, tomatoes and basil. But the manner in which it is prepared, the pasta made fresh and cooked to a perfect al dente……fresh organic tomatoes and freshly picked basil…all made this dish perfectly simple, elegant and of course, worthy of a spotless plate.

In addition to the food that we ordered, Scott also sent us a complimentary polenta with wild mushrooms….very Italian… it’s just cooked cornmeal, but Scott’s polenta is rich, creamy and flavorful…truly one of the best polenta dishes I have had. He adds cream and parmesan and then preserved truffles and a mix of wild mushrooms… a simple dish but unsurpassed in richness.

As far as food is concerned…my Miami trip did not end there. My brother’s kitchen is one of my favorite kitchens to cook. It is so spacious…has a huge marble island and top quality cooking equipment…and pretty much anything a happy chef needs to do some damage! This Sunday I decided to cook for a group of 30 of his friends.

My brother is very spontaneous and young at heart and very frequently decides to throw last minute dinner parties, jam sessions (he is a great piano player) and everything in between. So, like the great sister I am, I rolled up my sleeves and drove to the Whole Foods on Alton Road and came up with the menu impromptu. Cooking on the “fly” is very much like a jazz musician. Improvising is what makes it exciting. Following a recipe is always fun…like reading music, but coming up with something off the top of your head is one of my favorite things about cooking.

Here’s the menu I came up with!

Braised Red Snapper Mediterranean

Grilled Tuscan Steaks

Broccolini Sauteed in Olive Oil, Garlic and Lemon Juice

Roasted Rosemary New Potatoes

Salad of Watercress, Bibb, Cucumbers, Tomatoes and Olives and Feta

Recipe Red Snapper Mediterranean

Serves 6

3 red snapper filets ( ½ pound each) skin on, trimmed and pin bones taken out

2-3 sprigs fresh rosemary

1 tablespoon fresh thyme, chopped

1 tablespoon Italian parsley, roughly chopped

1 ½ cups fresh fennel, sliced into thin rounds

½ cup shallots, sliced into thin rounds

10 pitted Kalamata olives, sliced in half

6 roasted plum tomatoes ( recipe attached) or buy at specialty food store, or sun-dried tomatoes in olive oil

2 teaspoons capers, rinsed juice of one lemon

salt and freshly ground pepper

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons white wine

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Lay one sheet of foil onto baking sheet. Place filets in the center of foil. Season the fish generously with salt and pepper. Sprinkle with rosemary, thyme, fennel slices, shallots, olives, roasted tomatoes and capers, Squeeze the lemon over fish and drizzle with olive oil and white wine. Lay another piece of foil the same size over the fish and roll edges to seal the fish. Place fish in 400 degree oven for 15 minutes. Take out of oven and let sit for a few minutes. Open foil carefully and use a spatula to place fish on plate. Spoon vegetables and sauce over the fish. Serve immediately.

Note: This recipe can be used with just about any firm white fish. It is essentially fool-proof as long as you don’t overcook