Flavors in Love » hamptons restaurants

A Musical Feast In Napa

admin — Sun, 06 Sep 2009 16:18:03 +0000

Maria Manetti Farrow…the name has a special ring to it…rolling off my tongue like a melody…and that is who she is…my friend…Maria…a melody…sensual…lilting…full of music.

I first met Maria in St. Barts many years ago and we became instant friends. As we walked the beach together, she told me about her life…bringing Gucci to the United States in the early 80’s, working working working 24/7 for so many years to build the Gucci brand. Because of her incredible style and marketing abilities.. her hard work paid off!!

Ville Mille Rose

Today, she is a patron of the arts and travels the world. She built a phenomenal home on 60 acres in Oakville California/Napa and named it Ville Mille Rose, because she has roses growing everywhere on her property. This estate is the essence of Italy where she was born and raised. There are vineyards on all sides ,flowers and fruit tress , lavender and sunflowers wherever you look.

I am so lucky to have had the privilege to stay with Maria in August for the last several years in a row…Every time I’ve gone out to visit her it’s been at the height of the season in the beautiful Napa Valley.

Maria loves to entertain. The first time I was invited to her home, she had a lunch on the lawn for me with Chef Gary Danko http://www.garydanko.com/ and some of her other dear friends. I was mesmerized by the beauty of the surroundings. Everything was picked fresh from her garden… the tomatoes….the peaches… the fresh herbs.. Truly a heavenly place for a foodie like me.

Kitchen At Ville Mille Rose

Last summer I stayed with her for 3 days and every morning we walked in her
vineyards and picked ripe peaches and plums from her trees as we caught up on both of our lives.

Maria is a connector and loves to connect her friends together. She never stops…she hardly sleeps…and is constantly in motion….we walk in the morning and have chicken soup for breakfast…I love this ritual. Loi, her trusted Vietnamese housekeeper and chef., makes it fresh with all the vegetables from her garden and organic chicken.

Being the connector the she is, Maria entertains every weekend. She is meticulous about planning her menu with Loi and is involved with every detail. She does the table seating concentrating on where everyone will sit and then she writes our names on leaves with a gold pen.

Don't You Love It When You're Inspired By Your Host?

What a brilliant and beautiful touch. She picks roses from her garden and throws the leaves on the table… so very Maria! Don’t you love when you stay at somebody’s home and they inspire you with new ideas for your own entertaining?

She figured out how to make a classic Bellini with white peach juice from her own peach trees and Prosecco. She peels the peaches and then puts vitamin C powder and lemon juice on them to preserve them and she freezes them. Then she purees them in a blender and combines with the Proscecco. This was the cold, refreshing bubby cocktail that she served on a hot summer day in Napa.

This lunch was to celebrate her very close friend and composer, Daniel Brewbaker who composed a piece that was being played at the Music in the Vineyard Festival.http://www.musicinthevineyards.org/. Daniel had lived with Maria for 4 years and during lunch, he toasted her with a beautiful poem, and then her friend Margrit Mondavi spoke of the special friendship they have shared for 30 years.

I was honored and privileged to be at this extraordinary lunch with Maria and her closest friends to experience the hospitality, good cheer and ambiance of her home as well as the magnificent food and Napa Valley wine. Some of the guests included Bill Harlan from Harlan Estate http://www.foodandwine.com/articles/californias-cult-cabernet-visionary and Margrit Mondavi, the late Robert Mondavi’s wife. http://www.robertmondaviwinery.com/flash/index.html

Pamela and Margrit Mondavi

The late Robert Mondavi said that Maria is the bubble in the champagne of life!

I agree.. perfectly said.!!!

Here’s to Maria!!

NYC Fancy Food Show 2009

admin — Sun, 12 Jul 2009 16:11:24 +0000

Despite my intense love of food, I would never consider myself a “glutton,”. However there are 3 days a year when I truly allow myself to behave like one. Those are the daysof the annual ”Fancy Food Show” at the Jacob Javitz Center in New York City. This year it was…June 28, 29^th and 30^th.

Holy mackerel-snapper-chocolate-coffee-cheese…I love the Fancy Food show!

I love the Fancy Food show not only because I get to eat unlimited small tastes of the finest and most delicious variety of foods, all in one building, but also because I love to check out the new trends of the year in food. What’s hot? What’s new? What’s creative? What’s bizarre? What works, and what missed the mark?

Here is my take:

My Prize for the strangest new product this year….(drum roll please!)

BLACK GARLIC

No additives or preservatives.. it’s aged for a month in a special fermentation process under high heat where it develops its darker color, softer texture and sweeter taste. It looks bizarre…kind of like tar (that doesn’t sound very appetizing) but I tried it tonight on my roast chicken. I combined it with olive oil and a Mexican spice mix and rubbed the mixture under the skin of the breast meat.

It had a smoky taste and was aromatic, sweet and delicious. Apparently black garlic is loaded with twice as many antioxidants as raw garlic; and it contains a compound: S Allycysteine, which is a natural compound proven to be a factor in cancer prevention. No bad breath either! Who would have thought?

My Prize for the most Ubiquitous Ingredient of the Year:

CHOCOLATE!!!! (my favorite!)

Chocolate is in everything these days…especially organic chocolate, mixed with sometimes unique, sometimes very bizarre ingredients. There was Red Chili Hot Chocolate, Chili Pepper Chocolate Wafers and Chocolate Strawberry Tea. The food show hosted chocolates from all over the world and of every origin and for a chocolate lover, it was close to heaven.

One of my favorites was the new Double Dark Chocolate Mate by The Republic of Tea. South American, organic, roasted Yerba Mate blended with organic dark chocolate. The tea has distinct chocolate overtones and is very rich and satisfying.

Another chocolate highlight was Anna Shea Chocolates. These chocolates are so beautiful…works of art even…like jewels to savor. She makes 38 different flavors and all are hand crafted bon bons.

Combining the finest ingredients with the highest quality Swiss Couverture.
www.annasheachocolates.com

My Prize for the New Fad of 2008-2009….

WATER!

Yep! Water. But not just any kind of water. FLAVORED water. Naturally flavored, sugar free water is a rapidly expanding business these days. Actually, it’s probably one of the more successful businesses in the world at the moment.. Who could have imagined years ago that we would be paying money to drink nature’s most natural and most abundant resource?

The new ones I loved are called Ganic Waters and are enhanced with natural extracts and aromas. Cranberry, Pearl, Smooth Ginger, Citric Lemongrass and Merry Cherry.. Sugar free. Now that’s the way to stay quenched—all naturally.

My Prize for Biggest Food Word of the Year

BIODYNAMIC

I didn’t even know what this meant until the food show and it was used very often throughout the show. Biodynamic means “Beyond Organic.” Wow…who thinks of these things?

For example a Biodynamic Tea would be grown and processed according to the highest sustainable agricultural and environmental canons, exceeding the standards of the U.S. National Organic Program. Organic on steriods is another way to put it.

Check out Zhena’s Biodynamic Gypsy Tea

www.GypsyTea.com

Other highlights and fads include antioxidants, acai berry, salt, pestos and olives.

Just like chocolate, antioxidants are in everything this year. And so is Acai Berry. The Republic of Tea has a whole new line of superberry antioxidant teas for Women’s Health. Flavors are: Wholeberry, pomberry, cocoaberry, acaiberry and cherryberry.

Salt is also huge this year.. a continuing trend of the last few years.

Check out this photo of.. HimalaSalt.. the purest salt on earth.

I loved this display.

www.HimalaSalt.com

The company LeGrand also was a highlight for me. Check them out here at www.maisonlegrand.com. Their pestos are so fresh and they are a leader in the production of cold-processed sauces all packaged in a plastic pouch. My favorites were the 4 nuts and cheese pesto, the lemon confit, the pumpkin seed aromatic sauce and the spicy olive and sun-dried tomato tapenade… many different tastes and textures and all so fresh tasting.. especially for a packaged food product.

I would love to have them in my fridge to serve with fish or simply to use for an easy spread for company.

And then of course, let’s not forget the olives.

I adore olives and I have never seen so many kinds in one place. Although there are so many olive importers, I loved FoodMatch Inc. They specialize in olives and antipasti from the Mediterranean. www.foodmatch.com

“Except the vine, there is no plant which bears a fruit as great importance as the olive”

-Pliny (AD 12-79). Still holds true today. The olive is still considered one of natures most perfect creations and there is nothing quite as satisfying to the soul and senses as a welcoming bowl of olives.

To be honest, there was so much incredible food at this show that I could write forever on it. However, after a hearty stomach ache…I would go back again tomorrow and do it all over again.. but alas, I have to wait for an entire year to pass before the Fancy Food Show comes back to NYC.

Lunch With Food Guru Gael Greene

admin — Tue, 26 May 2009 02:54:43 +0000

I met Gael Greene, restaurant critic extraordinaire, about 15 years ago when my partner and I were invited to a small pot luck dinner that she gave in the Hamptons. I made a dish for the potlock, I think it was a filet of beef…but either way I was extremely nervous to cook for her back then. Luckily she loved my dish, and we quickly became good friends.

I loved the idea of a pot luck dinner with fellow food lovers alike; so the following year, my boyfriend and I invited many of my favorite foodie friends…. Alfred Portale,( Gotham Bar and Grill) , Michael Romano, ( Union Square Café), Tom Colicchio ( Top Chef) , Karine Bakhoum( KB Network News) and or course, Gael and her road warrior, Steven Richter. Everyone brought a dish and it was truly one of the best dinner parties/food fests I have ever been to (if I do say so myself!

The idea of a pot luck dinner ended up getting bigger every year. It seemed like everybody who I knew in the food business wanted to come and eat each others food, dance, drink and generally have a great time with one another. We started calling it the “Chef and Foodies Pot Luck Dinner” and we held it annually for years until it just became too big for me to handle. The last year we did it.. there were 150 people!!!

Gael and I have remained friends since then and I so enjoy her intelligence, wit and company…especially when we go out to new restaurants. I admire how she spearheaded City Meals on Wheels and I have been a contributor for many years. It is a charity dear to my heart.

Gael and her partner Steven stayed with me this weekend in the Hamptons. Though we both had busy schedules, she a glamorous wedding and me, other events, we had a chance to cook some lunch together on Saturday.

A quick bit about Gael:

“In her role as restaurant critic of New York Magazine (1968 to
January 2002) Detroit-born Gael Greene helped change the way New
Yorkers (and many Americans) think about food. A scholarly
anthropologist could trace the evolution of New York restaurants on a
timeline that would reflect her passions and taste over 30 years from
Le Pavillon to nouvelle cuisine to couturier pizzas, pastas and hot
fudge sundaes, to more healthful eating.

As co-founder with James Beard and a continuing force behind
Citymeals-on-Wheels as board chair, Ms. Greene has made a significant
impact on the city of New York. Rallying food world peers to make a
commitment to help feed the city’s homebound elderly, she has devoted
as many hours to fund-raising in recent years as she does to writing.
Citymeals, the largest public/private partnership in the country, has
raised $150 million in its twenty-four-year history to help feed the
city’s frail elderly shut-ins.. For her work with Citymeals, Greene
has received numerous awards and was honored as the Humanitarian of
the Year (l992) by the James Beard Foundation..”

SO….

Was I intimidated to cook for such a food celebrity? Considering the fact that she is a good friend of mine and I have cooked with her a number of times, I, unlike most chefs in the business, was not nervous
to make a casual lunch with Gael. (If she was reviewing the opening of a new restaurant and I was the chef…that might be another story!)

Though I love shopping at the local markets in the Hamptons, I am very pleased with the new Citarella that just opened right in Bridgehampton as the fish department is nothing less than inspiring. Though we had many choices of fish, we ended up deciding on a beautiful wild caught sea bass for our main course.

As I mentioned in my last post, one of my favorite summer time appetizers is my fava bean spread, and even though I make it a LOT over the summer I made it again for Gael. I served it first as an appetizer and then grilled the SeaBass with fresh cumin. The distinct flavor of cumin is so delicious when combined with the sauce that has the Middle Eastern Flavors of cardamom and cinammon.

In my cookbook, Pamela Morgan’s Flavors, I make this seabass with preserved lemons. Since I didn’t have any, I grilled the lemons instead and I loved the way they looked and tasted combined with the fish and sauce.

The herbs in our garden were looking very fresh as well and so I decided to make Garden Herb Potato Salad with parsley, tarragon, dill and chives. This particular potato salad tastes so much better when it is served warm.

Although I was satisfied cooking the whole meal myself , Gael wanted to keep busy so we talked about her new favorite restaurants and her upcoming trip to Brazil as she helped me chop celery, set the table and brush olive oil on the sourdough bread used for the fava bean
spread.

The lunch, to both our satisfaction turned out not only delicious, but also full of wonderful and enlightening conversation with this renowned food critic. It’s a pleasure for a foodie/chef like me to spend time with somebody who knows such a great deal about the art of cooking. See http://www.insatiable-critic.com/

Here is the menu:

Fava Bean Spread ( see blog post “Who Doesn’t Love The Start of Spring)

Cumin-Grilled Sea Bass with Grilled Lemons

Garden Herb Potato Salad

Cucumber and Tomatoes with Feta and Mint

We were too full for dessert!!

So we ate healthy chocolate instead ( www.flavorsinlove-chocolate.com)

Here are the recipes!

Cumin-Grilled Sea Bass with Grilled Lemons

Serves 8

5 lemons cut in half

3 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons agave nectar or honey

4 tablespoons olive oil

3 shallots, peeled and finely chopped

4 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped

¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon

¼ ground cardamom

¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper

4 cups chopped fresh plum tomatoes

Salt

1/3 cup halved pitted black Greek olives(Kalamatas)

About 4 pounds sea bass, filleted into 8 pieces

4 teaspoons ground cumin, preferably from toasted seeds

Preheat the grill. Brush the halved lemons with olive oil and agave nectar.

When the fire is hot, lay the lemons on the grill. Grill on both sides until

caramelized about 15 minutes. Remove from the grill but keep the grill lit.

In a medium nonreactive saucepan over low heat, warm 2 tablespoons of the oil.

Add the shallots, garlic, cinnamon, cardamom and crushed red pepper. Cover and cook, stirring once or twice, for 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes and ¾ teaspoon of the salt and bring to a simmer. Cook uncovered, stirring occasionally, until slightly reduced and no longer watery… about 15 minutes. Cut up one of the lemons into small strips and add it and its juice to the sauce.

Reserve the rest of the lemons.

Rub the flesh side of the bass fillets with the remaining 2 tablespoons oil. Season lightly with salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle the flesh side with the cumin, using it all and patting it to encourage it to adhere.

Lay the fillets on the rack. Cover and cook, carefully, turning once until the flesh is just cooked through but still moist and barely flaking, 12-15 minutes.

Transfer to a dish. Garnish with the grilled lemons. Spoon the sauce around the fish and serve immediately.

Adapted from Pamela Morgan’s Flavors

Cucumber and Tomato Salad with Olives, Feta and Mint

1 hothouse cucumber, about 1 pound, trimmed

¾ pound (3 medium) plum tomatoes

1 medium-sized red onions, peeled, halved and sliced

½ cup pitted black Greek olives ( Kalamatas)

3 tablespoons cold-pressed extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons seasoned rice wine vinegar

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

5 ounces drained feta cheese, preferably Greek, crumbled
Halve the cucumber lengthwise. Angle-cut each half cross-wise into ½ inch pieces.

Core the tomatoes and halve them vertically. Scoop out the ribs and seeds. Cu each resulting tomato shell length-wise into 5 or 6 ½ -inch wide strips.

In a large bowl, combine the cucumber pieces, tomato stips, onion slices, olives, mint,

oil and vinegar. Toss well. Season lightly with salt ( the feta will be salty) and generously with pepper and toss again.

Transfer the salad to a shallow serving bowl or deep platter if desired. Scatter the feta

Over the salad and serve immediately.

Adapted from Pamela Morgan’s Flavors

Garden Herb New Potato Salad

Serves 6-8

3 pounds small red-skinned new potatoes, well scrubbed and trimmed

¼ cup apple cider vinegar

¼ cup cold-pressed extra-virgin olive oil

1 ½ teaspoons salt

Fresh ground black pepper

1 cup finely chopped celery

1 cup thinly sliced green onion, tender green tops included

¼ cup chopped drained cornichons ( French gherkins)

¼ cup finely chopped fresh dill

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh tarragon

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh chives

2 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley

Set a steamer basket in a pot and add about 1 inch water. Set the pot over medium heat

and bring to a simmer. Halve the smaller potatoes; quarter the large ones. Add the potatoes to the steamer basket. Cover the pot and cook just until tender, about 15 minutes.

Transfer the potatoes to a large bowl. While they are still hot, drizzle them with the

vinegar and then the oil. Add the salt and a generous grinding of pepper. Toss gently.

Add the celery, green onion, cornichons, dill, tarragon, chives and parsley and toss again. The salad is best when served still slightly warm, but it can be cooled and refrigerated over night if necessary. Return it to room temperature before serving.

Adpated from Pamela Morgan’s Flavors

Sunday Night Cooking and Recipe

admin — Mon, 23 Mar 2009 20:22:13 +0000

Hello fello food enthusiasts.

So…, I love cooking on Sunday nights. It’s kind of a ritual that I have actually. I’ve noticed that many people are eating in more frequently these days to save money, and even though the economic state of the world is WAY less than ideal to say the least…it’s at least nice to know that families are getting back to the basics of home cooking, togetherness and nourishing times together. And then there’s the simple truth that cooking at home can be healthier than eating out. You use less fats and oils and if you choose to, you can cook with organic ingredients as well.

Whether I am cooking for somebody else, or just for myself, Sunday evening is usually a regular recipe testing, food experimenting evening for me…AND, I try to make WAY too much food so that I have leftovers for the rest of the week as well. This past Sunday I happened to be cooking for some special friends of mine, and thought I would take a risk and try to perfect my Cioppino recipe with a gorgeous and tasty winter salad. For those who don’t know “Cioppino” is a seafood stew derived from Italian origins.

It was developed in the late 1800s by Italian fishermen who settled in the North Beach section of San Francisco. Originally it was made on the boats while out at sea and later became a staple as Italian restaurants proliferated in San Francisco. It was made with the catch of the day and any leftovers. On Sunday, I used a variety of seafood… scallops, shrimp, calamari, red snapper and mussels. This is a perfect Sunday meal… as you can make the base ahead and then add the seafood at the last moment. You can also make it as spicy as you’d like, and I add red chili flakes. I like spicy food so my Ciopinno was on the hotter side…very delicious in my opinion. This rich stew/soup tastes tangy and spicy and you could actually choose to serve it over pasta if you’d like.

Since it’s a one dish meal.. I simply served it with a salad, and last night.. I used soft sweet butter lettuce and spicy arugula and added sliced red onions, cherry tomatoes, radishes, walnuts, steamed haricots verts and gorgonzola dolce.My guests were very happy with the meal.

Here is the my Cioppino Recipe:

Ciopppino

Serve 6

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 large onion, diced

6 small carrots, peeled and diced

5 stalks celery, diced

6 cloves garlic, finely chopped

1 can whole peeled tomatoes with their juices

2 tablespoons. tomato paste

1 cup white wine

2 8 oz bottles clam juice

1 t dried oregano, crushed

4-5 sprigs fresh thyme

¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes

Salt and pepper to taste

!/2 cup finely chopped fresh Italian parsley

½ pound mussels, cleaned and de bearded

½ pound large sea scallops cut in half

½ pound rock shrimp

½ pound regular shrimp peeled

½ pound squid. body( cut into rings) and tentacles

¾ pound red snapper or other white fish..cut into large chunks

Toasted bread for dunking

In a large casserole ( I love Le Creuset), heat 3 Tablespoons olive oil until hot and then

add onions, carrots and celery and sauté for 5-6 minutes.. Add the garlic and sauté for another 3 minutes. Add tomatoes, white wine and clam juice, oregano, thyme and red pepper flakes.. salt and pepper to taste.

Let simmer on top of the stove for about 20 minutes.

Add in all the seafood, cover and let seafood cook until just tender about 5-7 minutes.

Garnish with chopped fresh parsley and serve with olive oil croutons to dip into the broth.

Serve immediately.

For my list of last weeks happenings: please check out my “Happenings” page