Flavors in Love

Maria Manetti Farrow…the name has a special ring to it…rolling off my tongue like a melody…and that is who she is…my friend…Maria…a melody…sensual…lilting…full of music.

I first met Maria in St. Barts many years ago and we became instant friends.  As we walked the beach together, she told me about her life…bringing Gucci to the United States in the early 80’s, working working working 24/7 for so many years to build the Gucci brand. Because of her incredible style and marketing abilities.. her hard work paid off!!

Today, she is a patron of the arts and travels the world. She built a phenomenal home on 60 acres in Oakville California/Napa and named it Ville Mille Rose, because she has roses growing everywhere on her property.  This estate is the essence of Italy where she was born and raised. There are vineyards on all sides ,flowers and fruit tress , lavender and sunflowers wherever you look.

I am so lucky to have had the privilege to stay with Maria in August for the last several years in a row…Every time I’ve gone out to visit her it’s been at the height of the season in the beautiful Napa Valley.

Maria loves to entertain. The first time I was invited to her home, she had a lunch on the lawn for me with Chef Gary Danko http://www.garydanko.com/ and some of her other dear friends. I was mesmerized by the beauty of the surroundings.  Everything was picked fresh from her garden… the tomatoes….the peaches… the fresh herbs.. Truly a heavenly place for a foodie like me.

Last summer I stayed with her for 3 days and every morning we walked in her
vineyards and picked ripe peaches and plums from her trees as we caught up on both of our lives.

Maria is a connector and loves to connect her friends together.  She never stops…she hardly sleeps…and is constantly in motion….we walk in the morning and have chicken soup for breakfast…I love this ritual.  Loi, her trusted Vietnamese housekeeper and chef., makes it fresh with all the vegetables from her garden and organic chicken.

Being the connector the she is, Maria entertains every weekend. She is meticulous about planning her menu with Loi and is involved with every detail. She does the table seating concentrating on where everyone will sit and then she writes our names on leaves with a gold pen.

What a brilliant and beautiful touch. She picks roses from her garden and throws the leaves on the table… so very Maria!  Don’t you love when you stay at somebody’s home and they inspire you with new ideas for your own entertaining?

She figured out how to make a classic Bellini with white peach juice from her own peach trees and Prosecco. She peels the peaches and then puts vitamin C powder and lemon juice on them to preserve them and she freezes them. Then she purees them in a blender and combines with the Proscecco.  This was the cold, refreshing bubby cocktail that she served on a hot summer day in Napa.

This lunch was to celebrate her very close friend and composer, Daniel Brewbaker who composed a piece that was being played at the Music in the Vineyard Festival.http://www.musicinthevineyards.org/.  Daniel had lived with Maria for 4 years and during lunch, he toasted her with a beautiful poem, and then her friend Margrit Mondavi spoke of the special friendship they have shared for 30 years.

I was honored and privileged to be at this extraordinary lunch with Maria and her closest friends to experience the hospitality, good cheer and ambiance of her home as well as the magnificent food and Napa Valley wine.  Some of the guests included  Bill Harlan from Harlan Estate http://www.foodandwine.com/articles/californias-cult-cabernet-visionary and Margrit Mondavi, the late Robert Mondavi’s wife. http://www.robertmondaviwinery.com/flash/index.html

The late Robert Mondavi said that Maria is the bubble in the champagne of life!

I agree.. perfectly said.!!!

Here’s to Maria!!

This has been an amazing and summer for me, mostly thanks to my circle of remarkable friends.  My friends have been so generous, and have taken me into their summer homes to share their kitchens throughout the whole summer.  Through staying with them, I have been able to fulfill my creative juices and fill their kitchens with the aromas of the delicious food that we have cooked together.  I have also very much enjoyed teaching them tricks and tips from my years of cooking and entertaining.

Last weekend I stayed with my dear friends Alan and Diane Lieberman at their summer home in Bridgehampton..  The Leibermans own many of the best boutique hotels in Miami. www.southbeachgroup.com, and Diane owns her own real estate company www.sbirealty.com, so as you can imagine, they have a  truly beautiful home with a large kitchen, built perfectly for
entertaining.  This past Sunday, Diane decided to have a few friends over for brunch and I volunteered to help of course!  While most friends would be at the pool or on the tennis courts, I am
happiest cooking.

The Liebermans have a very functional kitchen.  They usually have house guests every weekend and keep their two huge fridges packed with food. SO different from my tiny kitchen in NYC and so much easier to experiment and enjoy the process in.

For Brunch, Alan and Diane and I created a menu.  The last time I stayed with them on July 4th, they had a huge brunch with 200 guests and scrambled eggs to order.  This weekend I decided to make two different kinds of frittatas: one with shitaki, asparagus and goat cheese, and the other with zucchini, onions and cheddar.  Frittatas are elegant, can be made ahead of time and there are so many different varieties.  You can use your vegetable garden and fresh herbs and use up all of those left overs from the weekend.

I also poached two Salmons, using some amazing soy ginger glaze that Alan had bought and mixing it with red wine.  I cooked them at 500 degrees for 20 mins and they came out perfectly tender and still pink inside.

Diane made a beautiful fruit salad, her chocolate chip banana bread and cooked loads of turkey bacon, and Alan put together a Smoked Salmon platter with bagels and all the fixings.  There was a lot of food and some very happy guests…including myself.  

Though I am not a big dessert maker, I decided to top the brunch off with my classic recipe for warm peach, plum and blueberry Brown Betty.  This was, of course, the highlight for everybody with even an inkling of a sweet tooth, and because I love it so much, and hardly ever make desserts, I have attached a photo by photo recipe of how to make this fabulous desert because it is so versatile and easy to make…and is always such a big hit.

Please enjoy!

Brunch Menu

2 Frittatas:

Shitake, Asparagus and Goat Cheese

Zucchini, Onions and Cheddar

Poached Salmon with Ginger Soy Glaze

Cucumber, Dill and Red Onion Salad

Bagels, Locks and Cream Cheese

Sliced Watermelon and Canteloupe

Breads, Butter and Jams

Peach, Plum and Blueberry Brown Betty

With Vanilla ice Cream

Diane’s Chocolate Chip and Banana Bread

Recipe For Brown Betty!

Serves 8-12

6 medium ripe peaches

8 ripe plums

2 cups blueberries

6 tablespoons maple syrup

Juice of one lemon

2 teaspoons lemon zest

1 tablespoon all purpose flour

1 teaspoon vanilla

½ teaspoon ground cinammon

Crunchy Oat Topping, chilled

2 pints vanilla ice cream

Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 400 degrees.

Cut the fruit into small sections and  place into an oven proof …… baking dish,

Toss the fruit with the maple syrup, lemon juice and zest.  Sprinkle on the all purpose flour and toss again.

Add the vanilla and the cinnamon.

With the tines of a fork, break up the largest lumps of topping.

Spoon the topping mixture evenly over the fruit,.using it all.

Set the dish in the oven and bake until the fruit is bubbling and the topping is browned

and crispy.. about 35 to 45 minutes.  Set on a rack for at least 10 minutes.

Serve hot, warm or cold with vanilla ice cream.

Crunchy Oat Topping

This all purpose topping can be prepared a day or two in advance and kept in the fridge till ready to use.  Or freeze for months and then let thaw in the fridge until ready to use.

1 1/3 cup golden brown sugar

1 cup unbleached all purpose flour

1 cup old fashioned( not quick cooking) rolled oats

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 cup walnut pieces

¼ teaspoon salt

12 tablespoons chilled  unsalted butter, cut into small pieces

In a food processor, combine the brown sugar, flour, rolled oats, cinnamon, walnuts and salt.  Pulse to blend. Scatter the butter over the oat mixture and process until a soft, crumbly and lumpy cookie like dough forms. Cover and refrigerate.  Use directly from the fridge.

Final Product:

Voila!

If you are a New Yorker…then you know how long it takes for spring
to REALLY arrive.  Too often on the east coast we get tastes or hints of spring days in late March and early April, only to be followed by more snow, and more cold.  However, this past weekend, I feel that spring REALLY arrived and my New York world started smiling again after a long winter, and many false starts to the much awaited spring.

As we all know, pollen is not the only thing in the spring air…and with the cherry blossoms, spring dresses, muscle tee shirts and crocus comes a rejuvenated spring bloom of aliveness amongst the minds and hearts of all New Yorkers.  AND, for the food lover, that aliveness is coupled by an excitement for Spring Vegetables!

When I don’t know exactly what I want to cook, I use the grocery store for inspiration.  This past Sunday was such an occasion, and although I knew I wanted the meal to have the pinks and greens colors of spring, I wasn’t sure exactly what it would be.  However, as I was perusing the Whole Foods isles I came across some very good looking ”fat leeks” as they are called.  They made me think about one of the best meals I had in Paris last year as we started that meal off with a leeks vinagrette.  I also found some fresh beets and put together a very simple dish of roasted beets and  leeks vinaigrette. I seriously can’t believe I don’t make this more often…it is so good and so so simple.  Beets are one of my favorite vegetables and when you roast them, they get even sweeter.  Add the tartness of the vinaigrette to the leeks which get soft and soak up all the juices, and you have yourself a perfect spring side dish or first course that virtually anybody can make.  Plus, the colors are sensational too

In addition to this perfect first course, I also found some fava beans at Gourmet Garage.  I was excited because fava beans and fresh Pecorino is a typical combination found in Italy in the spring and thus, inspired me to make my first fava bean spread of the season…one of my best recipes. It’s really an appetizer, very similar to pesto as it’s a puree made with basil, mint, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and garlic.  I have been making this fava bean spread for years and I serve it with some toasted or grilled sour dough bread brushed with a little olive oil.  This is always on of the first things that friends and family ask me to make when they visit and with a refreshing  glass of Italian Pinot Grigio, it makes another perfect spring appetizer .  And what a gorgeous spring color!!!

Here are the recipes:

Though I am a New York City girl (crazy since I grew up in the Boonies of Nowhere Texas) everybody needs a break from the hustle and bustle once in a while.  In my case, I am grateful because my older brother has a house in South Beach Miami, and whenever I need a dose of ocean air, or some “trendy” nightlife…or anything in between, I allow myself the luxury of hopping on the three hour flight and staying with my bro.   New York was freezing as usual this past winter so getting off the plane in South Beach was definitely a nice treat.   

And…speaking of TREATS, Scott Conant has a new restaurant, “Scarpetta” in the newly renovated Fontainbleu building in Miami.  I had been anxious to eat here since it opened and took this trip to FL as an opportunity to satiate my love of his elegant approach to very  simple Italian cuisine.  We ate there on a Friday night and I was pleased to see how busy it was.  It’s nice to know that the current state of our economy hasn’t impacted all the food lovers in the world…   

My meal consisted of an organic beet, endive and raddichio salad, and for an entree, my friends and I ordered Scott’s spaghetti with tomatoes and basil.  As somebody who has spent their life eating, learning, exploring and tasting different kinds of foods…especially these days when chef’s sometimes try to over compensate by making their dishes  overly-complex… a lot of time (not all the time) it’s really the the most simple dishes with the finest and freshest ingredients…cooked to perfection that truly satisfy my palate..  This dish is as simple as it gets….. spaghetti, tomatoes and basil.  But the manner in which it is  prepared, the pasta made fresh and cooked to a perfect al dente……fresh organic tomatoes and freshly picked basil…all made this dish perfectly simple, elegant and of course, worthy of a spotless plate.  

In addition to the food that we ordered, Scott also sent us a complimentary polenta with wild mushrooms….very Italian… it’s just cooked cornmeal, but  Scott’s polenta is rich, creamy and flavorful…truly one of the best polenta dishes I have had.  He adds cream and parmesan and then preserved truffles and a mix of wild mushrooms… a simple dish but unsurpassed in richness.   

As far as food is concerned…my Miami trip did not end there.  My brother’s kitchen is one of my favorite kitchens to cook.  It is so spacious…has a huge marble island and top quality cooking equipment…and pretty much anything a happy chef needs to do some damage!   This Sunday I decided to cook for a group of 30 of his friends. 

My brother is very spontaneous and young at heart and very frequently decides to throw last minute dinner parties, jam sessions (he is a great piano player) and everything in between.    So, like the great sister I am, I rolled up my sleeves and drove to the Whole Foods on  Alton Road and came up with the menu impromptu.  Cooking on the “fly” is very much like a jazz musician.  Improvising is what makes it exciting.  Following a recipe is always fun…like reading music, but coming up with something off the top of your head  is one of my favorite things about cooking.   

Here’s the menu I came up with!

Braised Red Snapper Mediterranean

Grilled Tuscan Steaks

Broccolini Sauteed in Olive Oil, Garlic and Lemon Juice

Roasted Rosemary New Potatoes

Salad of Watercress, Bibb, Cucumbers, Tomatoes and Olives and Feta 

 

Recipe    Red Snapper Mediterranean   

Serves 6     

3  red snapper filets ( ½ pound each) skin on, trimmed and pin bones taken out   

2-3 sprigs fresh rosemary   

1 tablespoon fresh thyme, chopped   

1 tablespoon Italian parsley, roughly chopped   

1 ½ cups fresh fennel, sliced into thin rounds   

½ cup shallots, sliced into thin rounds   

10 pitted Kalamata olives, sliced in half   

6 roasted plum tomatoes ( recipe attached) or buy at specialty  food  store, or sun-dried tomatoes in olive oil   

2 teaspoons capers, rinsed    juice of one lemon   

salt and freshly ground pepper   

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil   

2 tablespoons white wine     

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.  Lay one sheet of foil onto baking sheet.  Place filets in the center of foil.  Season the fish generously with salt and pepper.  Sprinkle with  rosemary, thyme, fennel slices, shallots, olives, roasted tomatoes and  capers, Squeeze the lemon over fish and drizzle with olive oil and  white wine.  Lay another piece of foil the same size over the fish and  roll edges to seal the fish.  Place fish in 400 degree oven for 15 minutes.  Take out of oven and  let sit for a few minutes.  Open foil carefully and use a spatula to  place fish on plate. Spoon vegetables and sauce over the fish.  Serve  immediately.     

Note:    This recipe can be used with just about any firm white fish.  It is  essentially fool-proof as long as you don’t overcook