Flavors in Love

I have been to St. Barts over 25 times and I never tire of this magical little island. I fantasize about my trip weeks before I go.  I have to admit that getting to St. Barts is an adventure that’s not always pleasant. That small plane from St. Maarten is only a 10 minute ride but often harrowing. Sometimes the winds are high and I am holding my breath until we fly over the mountain and land at the tiny airport and hear the first “Bonjour” at customs. Then we rent a car at Gumbs, say hello to Odile our lovely rental agent, and  make our way to the Hotel Isle de France.

I have traveled to many other Caribbean islands, but everything that St. Barts has to offer resonates with me….its turquoise waters, pristine beaches, chic restaurants, charming hotels, open and kind-hearted residents, unique shops, and perfect weather..it’s truly paradise.  And in the evening when the sun is setting after a relaxing day, the sound of the tree frogs is mesmerizing.  I know they are singing to me.

My guy Michael and I began traveling to St. Barts in 1999. We rented a villa that first year, then we discovered the Hotel Isle de France, and we have stayed there ever since. In fact, we bought one of their time shares. I adore this hotel… right on Flamand Beach. Everything about it is simplicity… but in that very stylish French manner…like the yummiest bed sheets, towels, and robes, and beautiful music playing when you walk in the door. Everyone there is like family now

We go back to many of the same restaurants over and over, and there are always a few new ones;

If you find yourself on the beach at the Isle de France,  have a dacquiri and lunch at La Casa de l’Isle. The menu is a lovely mix of salads and grilled foods with an Asian twist. Something for everyone. And of course, we have to have a bottle of Domaine Ott. The food is fresh and the view can’t get much better. The people watching is always good!!! It’s relaxed and perfect. The store in the hotel is fabulous.  Caroline runs it and she has a fashion show every year. The hotel invites everyone to watch the show and have free cocktails. Fun!

Maya’s is one of the Island’s most popular restaurants. Randy is always the welcoming host and his wife Maya is the chef. The food is simple French with a bit of Island flair. I always run into people I know. We had a local fish and a lovely Bresse chicken and vegetables the night we were there.

And then there’s the shopping. Of course there’s Hermes and Dior which are lovely, but also St. Barts has the most unique small stores like Poupette St-Barth and Laurent Effel. Gustavia is the capital of St. Barts and I love shopping there for the perfect new beach cover-up or sandals, or that great little dress. When we go into Gustavia, we eat lunch at The Creperie right in town and the food is sensational. Typical French, good fresh salads and of course a myriad of crepes, savory and sweet. I loved my banana, nutella and chocolate crepe…Mmmmm. Tres Bonne.

We had dinner at the fairly new L’Isola Italian Restaurant. Their food is top notch. Pasta was cooked perfectly. The restaurant was full and had a great buzz.

The best lunch on the Island was at the Eden Rock Hotel. My salad and veggies were outstanding. The view…with the planes flying in…was perfection!

We often spend Thanksgiving in St Barts and I have had many a delicious Thanksgiving meal at Maya’s.  This year, my dear friend Henry Lambert and his girlfriend Heather invited us to their sensational home overlooking the port of Gustavia. He cooked a traditional feast complete with a tender turkey, cranberry sauce, the best gravy, sausage stuffing, sweet potato pie, and excellent conversation.

Dinner at Le Ti St Barts is a must for fun and buzz. Carole, the owner, used to own La Plage with her husband Thierry. They are now divorced and he runs La Plage, she Le Ti. They have a fashion show every night. The models are gorgeous and everyone dances on the tables! It’s exactly the kind of scene you would expect on a French Caribbean Island. I could dance until dawn and have many times.

Here’s a question…when you have a euphoric travel experience and dream about it for many years, then return to experience it again, does it ever exceed your expectations? I have only been to Barcelona once and ever since I have been dreaming about going back to this dynamic city by the sea. It’s been nine years and the Spanish food culture has gone through a revolution. It is the go-to place for every Chef and foodie looking for new adventures. My good friend, Gerry Dawes, is an expert on Spanish food, wine, and culture, and he helped me design my trip. I had so many new places to check out, and some of the old favorites to visit again.

My partner M. drove like a crazy-mad-hungry-foodie from Provence to Barcelona to make our 3 o’clock lunch reservation at Can Majo...although we did make a stop along the way and I must say the rest stops in Europe, and especially in France, are a revelation compared to our side-of-the-road fast food joints! Our mouths were watering for paella during the whole drive. It was exactly as we remembered. The food is simple but the fresh ingredients turn it into magic, and certainly the atmosphere helps, sitting right on Barcelona’s busiest beach watching the bathing suits go by.

We had grilled langoustines and fried calamari and a very chilled bottle of Spanish white. Happiness. Then we followed this with a seafood paella that was sublime.

We were so full that we decided not to eat dinner that night... .We went to see a movie instead, and then stopped by the Hotel Arts for a drink and a stroll around the Casino.

The next day, we hit the streets and stopped by the Boqueria market.

Monday was not the best day to be at the Boqueria because about half of it was closed…so, we looked around a bit and returned the next day when everything was in full swing. Just take a look at these photos and you can see why I felt like a kid in a candy store.

Dinner that night was at Restaurant Moo in the Hotel Omm, with Chef Felip Llufriu at the helm.

The first course was Chef Llufriu’s signature dish, which he learned directly from Spanish Chef extraordinaire, Ferran Adria. It was called The Golden Egg… the buttery soft egg yolk encased by a crackling sweet lacquered shell, which is really caramel, dusted in gold leaf…surrounded by crispy salty corn. The mouth-feel was astonishing.

Chef Llufriu really is a genius….the way he mixes the different tastes and textures…salty, crunchy, sweet, smooth, all in one bite. He utilizes all of the indigenous ingredients of his country and it was such an innovative meal…

This was Michelin star dining. Expensive but worth every penny. The atmosphere was chic, the service was impeccable.

The proprietor of Can Majo recommended that we try Bar Mut the following night, a bustling tapas bar with an impressive wine list, and then head to Muttis, the exclusive private club upstairs. We were not disappointed! In my limited tapas bar experience this was truly the highlight. I could eat like this every day! The pictures will tell it all…

Adios Barcelona…on to Capri…..I hope you all join me on the final leg of my journey.

For help planning your Spanish vacation, please visit GerryDawesSpain.com!

Three countries. Twelve Days. 36 Meals. One delicious European adventure! My partner and I just returned from the most divine vacation! We visited St. Tropez, Provence, Barcelona, and ended in Capri. Over the next few posts I’ll share my trip with you..starting with our arrival in St. Tropez;

When author Peter Mayle speaks about Provence, people listen. Peter calls L’Auberge de la Mole one of his favorite restaurants. That’s pretty high praise!

I had been there before two years ago and loved it. I couldn’t wait to try it again. I remembered the vast amounts of food and the charming ambience….

 L’Auberge is located in a little town that has one stop light, about 20 minutes away from St. Tropez. It’s a family run restaurant..unpretentious and absolutely delicious.

Me in the kitchen

We ate in the garden…and sitting a few tables away I was delighted to find Joan Collins and her friends.

 

You must pace yourself here. They begin by bringing out several terrines, pates, rillettes & foie gras, with grilled bread and a large jar of cornichons…all homemade, of course.  

We then ordered frogs legs….steak with truffle butter and potato (phenomenal)…and duck breast (which was a little tough).

 But there’s more… a huge platter of cheeses and then dessert… chocolate mousse, prunes in syrup, pears cooked in red wine.

 What a way to start a vacation! And reasonably priced as well. It was a beautiful night.

 

The beach clubs in St. Tropez are where it’s happening during the day. You must make reservations. We normally go to Club 55 but I wanted to try something new so we went to La Voile Rouge instead. I loved it! Simple salads to start…grilled dorade, and a bottle of Domaines Ott. The DJ was terrific, as was the crowd and the fashion show.

Dorade at La Voile Rouge

Our foodie friends told us about Chez Camille for the best bouillabaisse. When you walk in, you see your pot of bouillabaisse bubbling away on the outdoor stoves. It’s a casual Restaurant, located right on Pampelonne Bay. They bring out the rouille, that spicy garlic aioli, and plenty of toast…then the soup, and the seafood on the side which you add to the soup yourself. It’s difficult to be in the south of France and not eat bouillabaise and this one was excellent. The experience of Chez Camille was authentic and I always love that.

 

To really experience St. Tropez night life, you must go to the clubs. We met friends and went to La Romana. This Bar/Restaurant is a scene. We definitely had a lot of fun, and the sexy fashion show was great, but the food was not good and overpriced. We then went dancing at Les Caves du Roy of course until wee hours in the morning….

Bellini at La Romana

 

After three days in St. Tropez, we headed to the heart of Provence.

We stopped in St. Remy on the way to Gordes where our hotel, La Bastide de Gordes, was located. Saint Remy was terribly hot so walking around this charming town was limited a bit. Everything closes down at one, and understandably so…the heat is very prohibitive. We lunched at Le Bistrot des Alpilles. This turned out to be one of my favorites.  

We cooled ourselves down with ice cold Belgian beers that hit the spot. We started the meal with a simple heirloom tomato salad…summer perfection..

 Then we split the langoustine cooked in pastis and the fennel and potato puree which was creamy and irresistible. I went into the kitchen and asked the chef for the recipe. He was happy to give it to me. I’ll be trying it soon and of course I’ll share it with you.

Langoustine with fennel-potato puree

Me and Soussi Samir, Chef at Le Bistrot des Alpilles

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

On our way to Gordes, which is one of Provence’s most beautiful hilltop medieval towns, we passed The Lavender Museum. I made “M” turn the car around. Can you believe there’s a Lavender Museum?! Provence is known for its special lavender and the museum actually taught us the history of how it is harvested and then made into lavender oil. Of course there is a store to buy products. I have always wanted to be running through fields of lavender, so I asked “M” to photograph me.  I hope there’s lavender in heaven.

 Our hotel was overlooking a medieval village in Gordes. The view from our room and the restaurant was very special….miles of fields and it stays light until 10PM so it’s magical watching the sunset. We each got a massage at the Hotel Spa, with lavender oil, of course.

That night we ate at the modern Le Bistro d’Eygalieres…a 2 star Michelin restaurant. We had a fantastic meal in the garden. Although it was roasting during the day, there was a cool breeze at night.

The chef, Wout Bru, is quite young. He and his wife, Suzy, built a small hotel, Maisonbru, and this restaurant about a year ago.

We had cannelloni of lobster and pan fried langoustines with tomato tartar and wakame. Wow!

Then I ordered baby lamb chops and ”M” had the red mullet a la plancha. This was true fine dining in France and a meal to remember.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The following day, we visited a market in Apt. I adore the outdoor markets in Provence…The variety of local, artisanal products is mind blowingly wonderful and I am happy just wandering from one booth to the next. My dream is to stay in Provence long enough to cook…maybe one day it will happen.

 

The next day we got up early and drove to Barcelona. Stay tuned to the next blog post to join us on the Spanish leg of our eating frenzy!

There’s nothing like a trip to Paris to get the juices flowing. Fresh-squeezed juices? In abundance. Creative juices? The place hums with inspiration. Other juices? Well, it is the city of romance…

Paris is simply divine this time of year, before the heat of summer really sets in. I just returned from a luxurious four-night getaway and my son, Zach, and his girlfriend, Sally were there staying at a friend’s apartment. We were blessed with perfect weather, bustling city streets (it was the week of the French Open), and of course, delicious food!

But before we get to the culinary delights: did you know that you can now ride bikes all over Paris? There are bikes for rent all over the city. The first half-hour is free, and then it’s one Euro an hour. You just dip your credit card in a slot and off you ride. Zach and Sally took full advantage of this amazing system, and had a blast exploring the city on two wheels.

I stayed at the lovely Hotel de Vendome, a small hotel right in the heart of the Place Vendome. The hotel is just steps away from two of my favorite chocolate shops, Michel Cluizel and Jean-Paul Hevin. The shops themselves are like museums to chocolate., and of course, I had to try a bit of everything, and I find that my friends back home are very happy when I arrive home with gifts for them from these shops.

Across the street we found the Hotel Costes, which is definitely still a hot spot after all these years. We packed in with the crowds for late night drinks and had a rockin’ and rollin’ good time.

Also nearby was Fauchon, home of the most elegant tarts and cakes.  They also showcase a plethora of cheeses, meats, charcuterie, sandwiches, salads, and more. Thrilled as I was to have a Fauchon on Park Avenue in NYC, it just could not hold a candle to the Parisian original, which is an unbeatable culinary experience. For breakfast, we feasted on pastries, fresh squeezed OJ and wonderful coffee while looking out at the Opera. It was an exercise in pure pleasure—and what’s more Parisian than that?

I made sure to visit many of my regular haunts on this trip, among them Le Comptoir. They don’t take reservations for lunch, but it’s easy enough to wait in line, and the food is worth the wait. It was a cool day, so we ate on the sidewalk under heat lamps. Eating at cafés in Paris is infinitely more relaxed than eating in NYC; Parisians eat slowly, relishing every little bite. And when in Paris, do as the Parisians, right? So we took our time to enjoy the food and the scenery, and got the most out of our meal.

In addition to my old favorites, I sought out some new restaurant experiences, like Christian Constant’s tribute to fish, the Michelin-starred Les Fables de la Fontaine. The restaurant is small and intimate; the fish is elegant and refined. This was a meal to be remembered—and since they allowed me to go back into the kitchen and take some photos, I can be sure to remember every detail. It’s amazing what they can do in such a tiny space!

I never have dessert at Le Comptoir because Gerard Mulot is just a few blocks away. The pastries at Gerard Mulot look like they belong in the Louvre, and they taste even better than they look! I was excited to try many new flavors of macarons, especially the delectable Salted Caramel. Why do they taste so much better in Paris?  Is it the water or the flour?  Anybody have an answer for me?

Rotisserie de Beaujolais was recommended by a friend. It was a fine, charming place to take Zach and Sally on our first night. It’s owned by the same people as its upscale  neighbor, Tour d’Argent, and yet the food is simple bistro fare.

I also squeezed in lunch at the newest Costes Brothers restaurant, La Societe, right in the heart of Saint-Germain-des-Pres. I had an arugula salad and steak with Thai seasonings. Although the food was not very French,  I loved my meal, though I would suggest going for dinner instead of lunch to truly take advantage of the very chic crowd.

Believe it or not, there’s even more to report—trips to the market, shopping on Rue Saint-Honore and the Rive Gauche…in a city like Paris, there’s always more to do and see and eat. My whirlwind four days weren’t nearly enough to do it all, but they left me feeling inspired, satiated, and trés trés content.